The dishwasher is one of the most used appliances in the home. It can save us time and water in our effort to keep our dishes and kitchen clean. However, if not properly used it is an appliance that can ruin a floor with water leaks, wreck a counter top and even affect our health. To save money you may be able to fix the problem yourself. The number one priority should be safety. Always unplug or cut the power to any appliance before it’s worked on. Also, keep in mind stainless steel tubs are extremely sharp and very dangerous. They have caused many trips to hospital emergency rooms.

There can be several different causes for dishwasher leaks. The most common reason is using too much detergent. This is usually an intermittent problem. When too much detergent is used (especially liquid detergent) suds form and the wave action of the spraying water will force them over the front edge of the tub bottom where there is no seal. The suds will drip out as water from the corner of the door. The fix is simple - use less detergent. Unless you’re washing very soiled dishes it’s necessary to use just a tablespoon of detergent split between the dispensers and the floor of the unit. A good test for detergent use is to start an empty dishwasher in a hot cycle without adding detergent and let it run for 5 minutes. Open the door to check for suds. To remove suds just add a teaspoon of cooking oil to the soapy water and restart the unit for several minutes until the suds have disappeared and then drain.

Other causes of leaks can be a faulty door gasket or other seals, a loose spray arm or cover causing water to spray toward the door bottom, a bad fill valve or supply hose or even problems with a drain pump or motor gasket.

Even if you are able to fix the leak yourself it’s important to monitor the dishwasher to ensure the leak has completely stopped. It’s a good tip to place a water leak detector on the floor beneath the unit as an early warning before damage can be done. This is a very small investment that can avoid thousands of dollars in home repair. Once again - if you’re not confident the leak has stopped a professional should be called.

If you can smell something burning in your Whirlpool or Kenmore top loader washing machine immediately unplug the unit. Put your hand against the plastic part of the electrical outlet. If heat is felt you may have located the source. A loose electrical connection in the wall plate can easily be fixed. If you’re not comfortable working with electricity call a professional.

Rather than calling for appliance repair you can easily repair many problems yourself. IMPORTANT: Always unplug or cut the power to any appliance before working on it. Safety should always be your number one priority.

To investigate further: with no clothing (in the unit) pull the clothes washer away from the wall and tilt it back against the wall. You may want to drape a small rug or towel over the control panel so the wall or control panel does not get damaged. The bottom is easily accessible by lying on the floor and removing the sound insulation. Black powder may be present from the belt but if there are pieces or if the belt looks worn consider buying a new belt. A white plastic drive belt guard is removed by unscrewing two screws using a 5/16″ drive tool. The easiest tool to use is a magnetic nut driver. The common sizes used in all appliance repair are 1/4″ and 5/16″ but they are available in sets. Many times the nut holding on the plastic gear is missing from defective manufacturing and the guard has a slot worn in it from rubbing against the belt. It is not necessary to loosen the motor to attach the belt. Laying on your back with the unit propped against the wall put the belt on the small pulley and with your hands pull the belt on using the larger pulley. If the nut is missing use a 5/16″ flat washer, a lock washer and a nut. If you don’t want to order a new nut use a 5/16″ X 24 tpi nut from a hardware store. DO NOT over tighten. It is important to make sure the belt is riding between the flanges on the small pulley or it will come off again. Do not use tape to fix the guard because shavings can pile up on the tape to cause problems. A new guard may be needed if it’s worn too much. After replacing the belt put the washer back on the floor and make sure it’s level by adjusting the legs at the corners. After leveling the unit make sure the nut between the leveling leg and cabinet is tight so it does not vibrate out of level.

Tools needed: flashlight, 5/16″ nut driver, small adjustable wrench, level

When buying a clothes dryer for your home cost, efficiency and reliability are important issues to consider. The initial cost can be offset by efficiency and reliability.

Location in the home is also important in order to keep a shorter vent run. It is advised that the vent run is no more than 25 feet. However, each 90 degree bend subtracts 7 feet from that allowed run. If a long run is necessary blowers can be installed to increase air flow.

Long dry times can be a symptom of a clogged lint screen. Keeping the lint screen clean from lint and residue can nearly double the life of a dryer by increasing efficiency. Soap, softener and dryer sheet residue can clog the screen to lessen air flow and efficiency. A good test for your lint screen is to pour a little water on it to check if it flows through. If soap does not work to remove heavy buildup a good way to a clean lint screen is to add a cap of Smelly Washer Cleaner to a little hot water and spray or dip the screen to clean.

Dryer drums can rust. Stainless steel drums in higher end dryers can dramatically lengthen the life of a washer. The high efficiency Bosch clothes dryer is one with a stainless drum and anti wrinkle technology.

Another common cause of long dry times (and multiple repair attempts) is a sensor for automatic drying cycles becoming coated with residue from softener or dryer sheets. This moisture sensor present on nearly all dryers on the inside front can be cleaned with vinegar or denatured alcohol. Do not use harsh chemicals because the coating is important to detect moisture in clothing for proper drying.

Proper maintenance of your dryer can provide years of trouble-free efficient operation.

To get rid of bad odor from a garbage disposal grind 1-2 gallons of ice while running hot water. If odor persists, add 1 level cap or 1 envelope of Smelly Dishwasher & Disposal Cleaner to a pail of hot water and pour the mixture down the drain before retiring for the night. In the morning grind another gallon of ice while running hot water.

Another cause of odor can be an improperly installed P or S trap under the sink

If you notice a burning smell in your washing machine, the cause could be any number of things. Regardless, this is one smell you shouldn’t ignore. It’s important to quickly diagnose the problem and find the solution.

The “Burning Belt” Smell

Many top loaders are “direct drive.” This means they do not use a belt. The motor is directly connected to the transmission. If you have a direct drive machine and your washer smells like it is burning, read on.

In Whirlpool and Kenmore models there is a rubber coupler between the motor and transmission that takes much abuse. It’s very common for the fingers or the rubber itself on the coupler to break. A clicking noise with no spin or agitation along with a slight rubber smell are symptoms of this problem. DIY repair is possible.

Older models and also new model HE front loading and top load washers may have a drive belt.

To work on a top load HE washer pull the empty unit away from the wall. Drape a small rug or towel over the control to minimize damage to the wall and the panel. Lean the unit against the wall and the bottom will be clearly visible. Lie on the floor and note if there are rubber pieces or shavings under the washer. The belt may be rubbing against a plastic guard attached to the motor. The solution is actually quite simple: If the belt is shredded or worn you need to replace it. You can call a repair person or, if your washer is under warranty, the manufacturer. Or, if you or someone you know is handy, you can do it yourself!

Electrical Problems

If your washer smells and you have a direct drive machine, it may be the motor, transmission, or both. If these are shot on your washing machine, the result may be an electrical burning smell. Both are necessary to run your washing machine and can be costly to repair. The first thing to do if you notice an “electrical” smell in your washing machine and not a “rubber” burning smell, is to unplug the machine and call the manufacturer or a repairperson.

An electrical burning smell may also be caused by a water leak coming into contact with electrical wiring. Both are major concerns and should be addressed immediately. A water leak can cause structural damage in your home and can short out the electrical wiring in your washer and cause additional damage to the machine.

Other Causes

Another more likely cause of a burning smell in your washer is overloading. Adding too many clothes to your washing machine can stress the motor or transmission, causing them to overheat or malfunction and emit a burning smell. For top load washers, overloading can cause the agitator to freeze or malfunction, stressing the drive belt and causing friction, which could emit a burning rubber smell.

To prevent overloading, know the size of your washer. They are measured in cubic feet. In addition, know how many towels, pants, shirts, and other items you can safely load. When it doubt, do smaller loads. Not only will this prevent overstressing the machine, it will also ensure clothes are thoroughly cleaned and rinsed.

A washing machine is an everyday household essential. Foods, clothes, and shelter are a human’s necessities. Clean clothes? Even better. But as you may have already learned through experience or read about through others’ woes, washing machines can be a finicky lot. So here are a few tips to help you extend the life of your new washing machine.

About Your New Washer

The good news is that the average lifespan of a new washer is anywhere from five to twelve years… wow, that’s a big disparity. So what makes a washer last five years and not twelve years? Well, the brand certainly makes a difference. Before you even buy a new washer, do your homework; read some reviews. It’s a fact that some manufacturers have gotten it right, and others haven’t.

It’s also important to (gasp!) read the manual that came with your new washing machine. This seems unimportant, especially as newer models are so user-friendly with their digital displays and touch pads, but the manufacturer provides important instructions for caring for your washer that shouldn’t be ignored.

Hard Water Is The Enemy

You’ve probably heard about hard water; especially from women about how their hair is frizzy or their skin is dry, or maybe you’ve had dishes come out of the dishwasher with streaks on them? These are all the result of hard water. When mineral deposits, such as magnesium and calcium, build up in your pipes, the result is hard water.

Hard water entering your washer can result in mineral deposits in the lines, which can eventually lead to your washer not working efficiently or malfunctioning altogether.

The best solution is to install a water softener or filter on your main water line. This will remove minerals from your water before they enter your house. Not only will it extend the life of your washer, it will also fix your hard water-related streaky dishes and dry skin problems.

Use A Washing Machine Cleaner

A common complaint among owners of new washing machines (especially front-loaders) is washer odor. Washer odor can be caused by a variety of things including residual water, detergent mistakes, and a build-up of lint and other material. Washer odor can transfer to your “clean” clothes and cause an embarrassing, and stinky, situation. But the real “ick” factor is what causes washer odor: mildew.

To dissuade mildew from ever dreaming of taking up residence in your washer, use a washing machine cleaner, such as Smelly Washer, regularly. A washing machine cleaner should be used with no clothes in the tub on the hottest or preset “clean” cycle, about twice a month. Smelly Washer is made of all-natural ingredients that safely and effectively eliminate and prevent mildew, fungus, and odor from your washing machine. Use a washing machine cleaner to maintain that fresh-out-of-the-box “new washer” smell for years to come.

A stinky washing machine is no laughing matter. Not only can it cause your laundry room and surrounding area to reek, it can also be the source of stinky, mildewed towels and clothing. All of which can be embarrassing and downright miserable to live with. If you’ve tried the traditional methods of cleaning your washing machine without success, the source of the stink may be hidden.

A Hidden Cause To Your Stinky Washing Machine

A washing machine’s job is to clean clothes, and that’s exactly what it does. But have you ever wondered where all the “dirt” goes? Most of it drains out of the washing machine with the water. But larger particles like lint, hair, skin and even residual detergent and fabric softener, can accumulate in hidden places in the washing machine.

These places where residue collects are breeding grounds for mildew and bacteria, which can cause a smelly washing machine. Mildew thrives in dark, damp places where there is a food source (such as lint, hair and detergent suds).

One of the most common places in a washing machine for mildew growth is under the agitator. This is an out-of-sight and out-of-reach area that has a tendency to trap larger particles and any residual water that doesn’t drain. So it’s important to clean under your agitator regularly to remove any build-up before it begins to mildew.

Remove And Clean Under The Agitator

Removing an agitator isn’t as scary as it sounds. In only a few simple steps, you can eliminate the source of your stinky washing machine.

The first step is to remove the cap on the top by either lifting or twisting it off. Beneath this cap should be a bolt. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the bolt, and then lift the agitator up out of the washing machine.

If you’ve never cleaned under the agitator, it may be “glued” down by all the gunk and mildew. It may be necessary to use rubber gloves to get a good grip, or even slip a small rope under the agitator for leverage to help pull it up out of the machine.

Warning: It’s easy to get smacked in the face by the agitator suddenly popping loose so be careful. As always, safety should be your number one concern!

Once you have removed the agitator, thoroughly clean the washing machine tub and the agitator with a cleaning solution. You may need to scrub the thicker areas and allow drying before replacing the agitator.

Clean the filter

It’s surprising what can make its way to the filter trap and it’s possible for the filter to become plugged with lint, toys, coins, screws, bra wires, etc. A good maintenance plan includes cleaning your filter if your washer has it. Consult your owners manual or do a search using your model number

Use A Washer Cleaner

Now that you have a clean washer, it’s important to maintain it. Not only should you clean under the agitator regularly, you should also consider using a washer cleaner such as Smelly Cleaner.

Washer cleaners are used in the hottest or clean cycle of the washing machine. Smelly Washer uses all natural ingredients to safely and effectively remove odor, fungus and mildew from your washing machine.

When combined with routine maintenance and cleaning of your washing machine, a washer cleaner can help eliminate and prevent the embarrassing odors caused by a stinky washing machine.

To freshen clothing many consumers add liquid fabric softener to their wash. Softener is dispensed in your washer by either gravity, centrifugal force or by suction created by flowing water and is simply too thick to be properly dispensed. Because softener is dispensed in the rinse cycle of a washing machine it leaves a residue on the inside of the outer tub. This residue is a food source for bacteria and mold and the clothes washer can begin to smell bad.

We recommend switching to dryer sheets or even the newer chemical free dryer balls. Dryer sheets can also be overused. They can be reused and/or cut into halves and still be effective. The sheets contain chemicals that can coat towels and cause them to be less absorbent. The chemicals can also coat a sensor that detects moisture in clothing on “automatic” settings in almost all dryers. This can cause long dry times and multiple repair attempts. Do not scrape the sensors to clean. Use vinegar or rubbing alcohol on a cotton tip to clean them.

Fabric softener and dryer sheets can also clog the dryer lint screen to cause long dry times. To test your lint screen hold it level and pour a half cup of water on the screen. If water does not flow easily through the mesh the screen needs cleaning.

If the user is adamant about using softener it should be diluted with water before using. Some experts claim by as much as 6:1 (water to softener, respectively). If used without diluting it can congeal and plug the dispensing ports and/or cause odor.

There are opinions that dryer sheets and fabric softeners contain carcinogens. The FDA claims that shampoos, detergents, deodorants, creams, soaps and other cosmetic products are not absorbed by the skin. Many health officials disagree with this stance. Some links to more expert opinions can be found at http://www.naturalnews.com/002693.html / http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Toxic-Danger-of-Fabric-Softener-and-Dryer-Sheets&id=16953 / http://healthychild.org/blog/comments/dinged_by_dryer_sheets/

Dryer balls are a newer, chemical-free alternative to both softeners and sheets. They soften by lifting and separating the clothing which allows air to pass more easily between items. They don’t cause as much noise as one may suspect because of raised nubs which take the force . They aren’t very popular because they don’t leave the fresh scent of softeners and sheets and don’t completely eliminate static cling. The latter is more noticeable in colder climates. The balls cost around ten dollars for a package of two.

In order for the refrigeration process to work efficiently (and at all )the condenser must be able to dissipate heat. If it can’t, the heat travels back to the compressor and will blow an overload and a start relay (a $150 to $250 fix). The condenser fan pulls hot air from the condenser and compressor area to cool them and blows it across the evaporator tray to evaporate the water in the defrost tray.

THE FAN ALSO PULLS IN DIRT, DUST AND ESPECIALLY PET HAIR THAT COVERS THE CONDENSER.

Regular cleaning of the front won’t allow dust to migrate to the back where the fan pulls it. If the condenser is a tiered style a refrigerator brush MUST be used to clean. If an angle style the best way to clean is with a vacuum hose. DON’T USE FORCE as the condenser has freon going through it and is sealed. Read the owner’s manual for maintenance instructions.